{"id":120648,"date":"2023-01-11T07:20:00","date_gmt":"2023-01-11T06:20:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/renewable-carbon.eu\/news\/?p=120648"},"modified":"2023-01-06T13:59:41","modified_gmt":"2023-01-06T12:59:41","slug":"eu-countries-prepare-for-textile-recycling-big-bang","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/renewable-carbon.eu\/news\/eu-countries-prepare-for-textile-recycling-big-bang\/","title":{"rendered":"EU countries prepare for textile recycling big bang"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><\/h2>\n\n\n\n\n\n<p>Recycling textiles is no easy feat, with industrial processes still in their early years. Yet, recyclers say a looming obligation for EU countries to collect and sort used textiles will help the nascent industry get off the ground.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\"><figure class=\"aligncenter size-full is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/renewable-carbon.eu\/news\/media\/2023\/01\/clothes-shoes-800x450-1.jpg\" alt=\"\n\nRecycling rates for textiles are currently rather low, with 1.7 to 2.1 million tonnes of used textiles collected annually throughout the EU, according to the JRC study. The majority of the remaining 3.3 to 3.7 million tonnes are thought to be discarded in mixed household waste, the study found. \n\" class=\"wp-image-120670\" width=\"709\" height=\"399\" srcset=\"https:\/\/renewable-carbon.eu\/news\/media\/2023\/01\/clothes-shoes-800x450-1.jpg 800w, https:\/\/renewable-carbon.eu\/news\/media\/2023\/01\/clothes-shoes-800x450-1-300x169.jpg 300w, https:\/\/renewable-carbon.eu\/news\/media\/2023\/01\/clothes-shoes-800x450-1-150x84.jpg 150w, https:\/\/renewable-carbon.eu\/news\/media\/2023\/01\/clothes-shoes-800x450-1-768x432.jpg 768w, https:\/\/renewable-carbon.eu\/news\/media\/2023\/01\/clothes-shoes-800x450-1-400x225.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 709px) 100vw, 709px\" \/><figcaption>Recycling rates for textiles are currently rather low, with 1.7 to 2.1 million tonnes of used textiles collected annually throughout the EU, according to the JRC study. The majority of the remaining 3.3 to 3.7 million tonnes are thought to be discarded in mixed household waste, the study found. [<a rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" href=\"https:\/\/www.shutterstock.com\/fr\/g\/tartanparty\" target=\"_blank\">Shutterstock \/ tartanparty<\/a>]<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n<p>The environmental impact of the textile industry is significant. A 2021&nbsp;<a href=\"https:\/\/publications.jrc.ec.europa.eu\/repository\/handle\/JRC125110\">report<\/a>&nbsp;by the European Commission\u2019s Joint Research Centre found that around 4-6% of the EU\u2019s overall environmental footprint can be traced back to textiles.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>To address this, the Commission presented in March 2022 an&nbsp;<a href=\"https:\/\/ec.europa.eu\/info\/law\/better-regulation\/have-your-say\/initiatives\/12822-EU-strategy-for-sustainable-textiles_en\">EU strategy for sustainable textiles<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Under the strategy, textiles placed on the European market would need to last longer, be easier to repair, and their lifetime would be extended by recycling the materials they contain into new high-quality products.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Improving design at the manufacturing stage is also being considered to make recycling easier, with new standards expected to be adopted under the EU\u2019s&nbsp;<a href=\"https:\/\/www.euractiv.com\/section\/circular-economy\/news\/eu-pushes-new-circular-economy-rules-for-everyday-items\/\">ecodesign regulation<\/a>. The objective is that all textiles placed on the EU market are durable, repairable and recyclable, and made to \u201ca great extent\u201d from recycled fibres.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The incorporation of minimum amounts of recycled fibres in new textile products is \u201creally quite promising,\u201d says Val\u00e9rie Boiten, senior policy officer at the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, a charity which works to accelerate the transition to a circular economy.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>\u201cThere are different ISO standards out there, but for recyclability, not yet,\u201d she told EURACTIV.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>\u201cThe challenge is that a product\u2019s recyclability depends on several factors, including material choices, the way components are assembled, and the availability of infrastructure to collect, sort, and prepare the product for recycling,\u201d she explained.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Recycling rates for textiles are currently rather low, with 1.7 to 2.1 million tonnes of used textiles collected annually throughout the EU, according to the JRC study. The majority of the remaining 3.3 to 3.7 million tonnes are thought to be discarded in mixed household waste, the study found.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>However, the data must be taken with \u201ca pinch of salt\u201d, Boiten argued, explaining that there is no Europe-wide obligation to report on the amount of textile collected from consumers or companies.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>\u201cThere are obviously a lot of textiles that don\u2019t get collected separately and that simply end up in people\u2019s kitchen bins,\u201d Boiten explained, adding: \u201cWe do not have a comprehensive overview of these flows.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The EU needs to introduce strict measures to slow overconsumption in the fast fashion industry and increase the recyclability of textiles in order to reach a zero waste and net zero economy by 2050, according to a new report.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Policy big bang<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>Textile recycling will also be greatly encouraged by a policy big bang, with new EU-wide waste collection and recycling targets kicking in as of 2025.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The revision of the EU\u2019s Waste Framework Directive requires EU countries to establish systems for the separate collection of textile waste by 1 January 2025.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>At the moment, there are no targets for collection, so there is no obligation for member states to report, with only 13 EU countries currently doing some reporting, the JRC report says.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Of these, only Austria, France, the Belgian region of Flanders and Italy report annually on post-consumer textile collection, while other countries have mapped them once or twice over the course of the past decade, often with the assistance of non-governmental bodies.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Additionally, there is no clear definition for textiles or of what should be included in the reporting, which means figures are not comparable across EU countries.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The recent EU Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles has not offered a definition or a description of the products that would be covered from a regulatory perspective. The EU Textile Regulation applies to \u201call products containing at least 80% by weight of textile fibres\u201d. But this definition would exclude the majority of footwear as well as accessories.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>\u201cSome might look at garments, some might look at garments and shoes, some might look at all possible textiles without really defining what a textile is. And I think that that\u2019s already an issue where there is no EU-wide definition of textiles and what products fall under textile,\u201d Boiten said.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The upcoming revision of the EU Waste Framework Directive will also include a proposal to harmonise so-called extended producer responsibility (EPR) schemes for textiles \u2013 which place an obligation on manufacturers to finance waste collection systems at local level.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Mandatory EPR schemes can provide the funding needed to collect discarded textiles separately, and divert them from mixed municipal waste. They can also help finance the infrastructure needed for sorting and preparing textiles for reuse or recycling.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>This is what is argued in a recent\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/emf.thirdlight.com\/link\/51d055xl9pwf-jbvkcd\/@\/preview\/1?o\">white paper<\/a>\u00a0by the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, which highlights the need for harmonised EPR regulations across all EU member states. These would achieve \u201csignificant economic and environmental benefits\u201d by improving the economics for waste from textile products, which currently ends up in landfills or incinerated, the paper argues.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>France was a pioneer in this respect. In 2007, it became the first EU country to introduce an EPR scheme holding producers of textiles, household linen and footwear responsible for the collection and recycling of their products.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>\u201cThe French EPR scheme was put in place to help the country towards reaching its collection and recycling targets,\u201d said Jennifer Cuenca of Refashion\/Eco TLC, an eco-organisation of the French textile, household linen and footwear industry.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The scheme promotes the ecodesign of products and supports repair and reuse. \u201cIt also supports efforts towards more transparency in the sector, improving consumer awareness, technological innovation, and overall better sharing between all stakeholders,\u201d Cuenca told EURACTIV.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>As a result, the amount of textiles sorted in France has more than doubled in 10 years, rising from 96,000 to 196,000 tonnes,&nbsp;<a href=\"https:\/\/refashion.fr\/pro\/sites\/default\/files\/rapport-etude\/ECO_TLC_EN_BD.pdf\">according to a 2019 report by Refashion<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Europe has an opportunity to use the textiles strategy, due to be published this year, to build on its history of textile manufacturing and switch to a more sustainable industry, benefitting citizens and the environment, writes Val\u00e9rie Boiten.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Dutch to follow French lead<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>For eco-textile advocates, similar schemes should be implemented EU-wide and harmonised as much as possible in order to generate economies of scale.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>This is what the Netherlands have started doing. Next year, the country\u2019s EPR scheme for textiles will come into force, obliging manufacturers of clothing, corporate wear and household textiles to contribute to the country\u2019s waste collection scheme.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>\u201cNot included are for example shoes, bags, belts, returned products, blankets, curtains and carpets,\u201d explained a spokesperson for the Dutch Ministry of Infrastructure and Water Management.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The Dutch scheme will be implemented in three stages: from 2024 onwards, producers will need to report annually on their put on market for the year before. From 2025, new targets will start applying \u2013 50% of textiles must be recycled and 20% must be reused. And from 2026, producers must report about their progress towards these objectives.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>\u201cAt the moment we have a lot of EPR systems being developed in several EU Member States and they don\u2019t all look very similar,\u201d said Mariska Boer, President of EuRIC Textiles, which aims at promoting, representing and protecting the collective interests of the European textiles re-use and recycling industry. \u201cWe envision a framework for an EPR system on the EU level, with enough room left for the member states to fill in the details themselves. But there needs to be a common framework,\u201d she argued.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Under current EU rules, textiles will need to be collected separately from 2025 onwards, and every member state will need a system to facilitate that, Boer said.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>\u201cWe are looking at a potential increase from 2.7 million tonnes of textiles being collected within the EU now, to 5.5 million tonnes of textiles in 2030. We do not yet have adequate infrastructure for collecting and capacity of sorting and recycling to handle this increased volume and rapidly need to expand,\u201d she added.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Currently, there are significant differences among EU member states when it comes to infrastructure for collecting and sorting textile waste. Some countries have \u201chardly any infrastructure\u201d, while others have well-developed systems already in place \u2013 such as the Netherlands and Germany, Boer told EURACTIV.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>According to her, an EPR system could also facilitate in partially financing the expansion of capacity.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>In The Hague, officials are keen to see EU rules implemented to harmonise the collection and recycling of textile waste. \u201cThe Netherlands specifically attaches importance to mandatory targets for recycled content,\u201d said a spokesperson for the Ministry of Infrastructure and Water Management.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Other priorities for The Hague include EU requirements to improve the durability and quality of textiles as well as product requirements to minimise the presence of harmful chemicals and microplastics, the spokesperson said.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Recycling textiles is no easy feat, with industrial processes still in their early years. Yet, recyclers say a looming obligation for EU countries to collect and sort used textiles will help the nascent industry get off the ground. The environmental impact of the textile industry is significant. A 2021&nbsp;report&nbsp;by the European Commission\u2019s Joint Research Centre [&#8230;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":59,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_seopress_robots_primary_cat":"none","nova_meta_subtitle":"A 2021 report by the European Commission\u2019s Joint Research Centre found that around 4-6% of the EU\u2019s overall environmental footprint can be traced back to textiles","footnotes":""},"categories":[17143],"tags":[10416,6406,10453,12468],"supplier":[8643,7281,2317,5585,13755,21579,4621],"class_list":["post-120648","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-recycling","tag-circulareconomy","tag-environment","tag-recycling","tag-textiles","supplier-ministry-infrastructure-environment","supplier-ellen-macarthur-foundation","supplier-european-commission","supplier-european-union","supplier-european-recycling-industries-confederation-euric","supplier-refashion-eco-tlc","supplier-the-hague-centre-for-strategic-studies-hcss"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/renewable-carbon.eu\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/120648","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/renewable-carbon.eu\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/renewable-carbon.eu\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/renewable-carbon.eu\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/59"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/renewable-carbon.eu\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=120648"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/renewable-carbon.eu\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/120648\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/renewable-carbon.eu\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=120648"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/renewable-carbon.eu\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=120648"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/renewable-carbon.eu\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=120648"},{"taxonomy":"supplier","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/renewable-carbon.eu\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/supplier?post=120648"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}